Thrive sustainability

Summer proof your patch

Laura Blishen • October 16, 2023

Summer is tough on gardeners in Perth and many areas of WA, growing edibles can be a real challenge in our harsh climate. However, if you can implement some of the following suggestions, you can create a resilient garden that can withstand the heat and turn a scorched patch into an edible sanctuary.


Some of the tips can be implemented quickly and easily and some may be part of a longer-term plan to future proof your patch.

When improving the resilience of your garden Start from the ground up- Amend Soil to improve permeability and water retention.

The Key ingredient really is Carbon /Organic Matter. Organic carbon is the basis of soil fertility. It releases nutrients for plant growth, promotes the structure, biological and physical health of soil, and is a buffer against harmful substances. Organic matter also binds soil particles into aggregates and improves the water holding capacity of soil.

According to the CSIRO, in rainforests or good soils, soil organic carbon can be greater than 10%, while in poorer or heavily exploited soils, levels are likely to be less than 1%.

Adding organic matter to your soil needs to be an ongoing priority. Here are some ways you can get more organic matter into your garden.

•       Mulch

•       Compost

•       Worm farm

•       Chop n drop

•       Lasagna beds

•       Hügelkultur beds

If you find that your soil is Hydrophobic and water beads off as would on a waterproof jacket Surfactant based wetting agent can improve this.

Catch the water in the winter and store it …This doesn’t just apply to water tanks!

•       Swales /Trenches to slow the flow of water, reduce run off, increase rain infiltration and reduce topsoil erosion.

•       Planting in hollows/basins if applicable

•       Use gravel for paths and driveways opposed to bitumen and paving, gravel will allow rainwater to permeate instead of running down stormwater drains.

•       Make use of natural run off areas, dig out trenches and landscape your garden beds to catch the water.

Watering

•       Best place to store water is in the ground itself.

•       Having an automated watering system is advisable unless you have lots of spare time on your hands, most veggies won’t survive if you go away or forget to water for a couple of days during hot periods.

•       Drip irrigation or low-level sprinklers have an advantage over overhead sprinklers as water loss due to wind drift, evaporation and over casting is reduced as is the increased risk of fungal disease in plants.

•       Less frequent Deep soaking for trees is better than daily watering.

•       Wicking beds are a great way to construct raised beds in our hot climate - see our previous blog post  

 Mulch prevents Evaporation, can reduce the amount of water needed by up to 50 % It regulates soil temperature -prevents roots from cooking! Organic mulches feed the soil as they break down.

Hot winds and extreme afternoon sun are the demise of many plants during the summer. Wind is responsible for topsoil erosion, drying out topsoil, damaging and drying foliage on sensitive plants.

•       Plant living windbreaks – Wind tolerant trees and shrubs to protect more sensitive plants. A trellis with tough climber can create living windbreak and create shade.

•       Utilise existing structures or protected areas for growing more sensitive plants.

•       Deciduous shade trees such as figs and mulberries can provide dappled shade in summer whilst allowing light through in winter months.

•       Shade cloth can make growing certain crops, much more viable during hotter months by preventing burning of foliage, reducing evaporation, and creating more humidity.   It is thought by some white is the best colour of shade cloth for protecting the plants from the UV whilst still allowing the other wavelengths through needed for plant growth. 30 -50 % shade cloth is suitable for growing veggies.

What else can you do to help plants cope

•       Kelp extract provides bio-stimulants that help plants to moderate water loss. Eco seaweed is a very cost-effective product.

•       Sunscreen for plants formulated from Clay or calcium carbonate will allow sufficient sunlight through to produce normal photosynthesis whilst preventing burning.

•       Be aware on a hot day plants and trees growing in pots may be more susceptible to heat damage as the roots will be much hotter than that of a plant grown in the ground.

When things get tough

•       Prioritise water to trees and larger perennial plants that will take longer to replace and grow, trees and shrubs also will be providing shade and habitat for people birds and other creatures.

•       Sacrifice quick growing annual plants

•       Established Lawns and many ornamentals such as osteospernums and gazanias can survive without much water, they may go a bit shabby, brown and ugly looking but come back as soon as the rains come.

   Don’t give up, learn from mistakes, and keep gardening!

Bugs aren't bad -Pollinators, Predators and Parasitoids - the superheroes of your veggie patch.

By Laura Blishen • November 15, 2024
Australia's unique ecosystems are home to a variety of insects that play vital roles in maintaining healthy gardens. Beneficial insects play 3 important roles in the veggie patch. Pollinators : These insects pollinate flowers and without them growing fruit and vegetables would be almost impossible. Examples include bees, butterflies, flies, and moths. Predators: These insects eliminate pests by eating them. Examples include ladybugs, praying mantids, and green lacewing larvae. Parasitoids : These insects lay their eggs on or inside other insects, which then become food for the developing larvae. Examples include wasps and flies. Pictured below: Homemade bee hotels, blue banded bee's, Lacewing egg on a mulberry fruit.

How to grow strong, healthy vegetable seedlings

By Laura Blishen • October 11, 2024
Raising your own vegetable seedlings from seed saves money, allows you to source interesting varieties that may not be available in punnets from your local garden centre and can grow as much as you need and practice successional planting. Sowing and germinating the seeds is the first step (for more tips on this see our seed raising guide here) Getting the seeds to pop their little heads up is the first challenge, but many people find once they get the seedlings past the stage where adult leaves are forming, they encounter problems. Common issues include Damping off, a fungal disease, that can cause seedlings to collapse and die suddenly. Leggy seedlings result from insufficient light, leading to weak, elongated stems. Yellowing leaves can indicate nutrient deficiencies or overwatering. Pest infestations, such as tiny fungus gnats flying around seedlings and infesting soil, can damage young plants. Mold growth in seed trays is another issue, often due to excessive moisture and poor air circulation. The following conditions are crucial for growing healthy, robust seedlings. Optimal Lighting and Temperature Seedlings need plenty of light to grow strong. Long, leggy, stretched seedlings are a result of insufficient light. If starting seeds inside on a windowsill once they have germinated, you need to get them outside in natural light, if the weather is cold a greenhouse or cold frame is useful, most commonly in Perth at this time of year the issue may be getting a hot sunny day that fry’s your little seedlings whilst you are at work; in this case placing them under the dappled shade of a tree or creating a little shelter with 30 – 40% shade cloth is ideal. If putting them outside before planting out is not practical or in the case of starting plants such as chillis and capsicums early when the weather is still cold, use grow lights for 12-16 hours a day. When using lights, I have constructed a reflective surround using corflute and kitchen foil that sits around the seedling trays to help the light distribute evenly. For most vegetables maintaining a temperature between 18-24°C is suitable to encourage healthy growth. Watering and Humidity Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Signs of overwatering can be yellowing leaves or an infestation of fungus gnats. How often seedlings are watered will depend on temperature and situation, but they will generally need watering once, or twice daily. Good Air Circulation Ensure there is adequate airflow around your seedlings. If growing in a greenhouse open windows and doors during the day or use a small fan to gently circulate air, which helps prevent the humid conditions that fungus gnats, fungi that causes damping off and mould thrive in. Fertilising Once seedlings have their first true adult leaves, start feeding them with a diluted, balanced fertilizer. Be careful to use the right dilution as fertiliser that is too strong can burn and damage young seedlings; a weaker solution is needed for seedling than mature plants and shrubs. I feed potted seedlings weekly, until they are a good size to plant out in the vegetable patch. Mark it in your diary or calendar so you remember to keep to the schedule! Seaweed solutions can be useful to prevent transplant shock and stress, but they are not a fertiliser and will not provide adequate nutrients to young growing plants. We make our own liquid fertilisers using weeds, manures and compost. Verigrow is also an excellent locally made fertiliser that we use occasionally. Regular pest check Small seedlings can quickly be decimated by pests due to their small size and in isolated areas such as greenhouses you won’t have small birds doing the pest patrol for you! Make a point of inspecting your seedlings closely a couple of times a week so you can address any problems before they reach plague proportions.

Saving Tomato, Chilli and capsicum seeds.

By Laura Blishen • September 18, 2024
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Seaweed tea recipe - How to create the ultimate tonic for your garden

By Laura Blishen • August 12, 2024
Seaweed tea: Fill a bucket or bin with seaweed and add water. The seaweed should be submerged. You can add seaweed loose or if you have one you can use a mesh bag (the type of sacks used for onions) or make your own tea bag out of some old scraps of shade cloth. Rainwater is best but if you are using treated tap water you can leave tap water in an open container for 1 to 5 days before using and some of the chlorine will naturally dissipate into the air. Place the bucket in a shady area, the brew will get a bit stinky so place in an out of the way spot where it will not bother you. Cover the bucket loosely with a lid so animals can’t get in and so any rain does not overfill and dilute the brew, but so that air can still circulate. Let it soak for at least 8 weeks or up to 6 months. The longer it brews, the more nutrient-packed it becomes. At the start the seaweed will break down using aerobic digestion, giving it a daily stir for the first few weeks will speed the process up or if you get serious with your brewing you can attach an aquarium pump, as the tea starts going into the anaerobic stage of decomposition it will get pretty stinky, this is all normal. A good indicator that the tea has finished this process is that the tea will stop smelling. The tea will brew quicker in warmer weather and be slower in the winter months. Strain the Tea: Pour the seaweed tea through a sieve or strainer into another bucket. This removes any remaining seaweed bits. Add any leftover seaweed sludge in to the compost. Using the Seaweed Tea: Dilute the seaweed tea with water (usually 1:10 ratio) and use it to water your plants. Apply it at the root zone or as a foliar spray.

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